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Feeder colony guide

Dubia Roach Colony

Blaptica dubia

Premier feeder insect — high protein (~22%), low chitin, good meat-to-shell ratio. Don't fly, can't climb smooth surfaces, don't chirp, minimal odor. Available in a wide range of sizes from nymph to adult.

Colony Setup

  • Container: Dark (opaque) smooth-sided plastic bin, 20–40 gallons
  • Hides: Egg crates stacked VERTICALLY — provides surface area and easy harvesting
  • Ventilation: Cut holes in lid, cover with METAL screening (they chew through plastic mesh)
  • NO substrate needed — bare bottom makes cleaning easier

Temperature & Humidity

  • Temperature: 85–95°F for breeding. Below 70°F, reproduction stops almost completely.
  • Humidity: 40–60%. Too wet = mold and mites. Water crystals provide hydration without excess moisture.
  • Use heat mat/tape on thermostat. Mount on side of bin, never directly on carpet.

Diet & Gut-Loading

  • Colony diet: Commercial roach chow or oats/grains. Fresh produce rotated: carrots, sweet potatoes, apples, squash, leafy greens.
  • Gut-load (24–48 hrs before feeding to reptile): Calcium-rich foods — collard greens, mustard greens, butternut squash, carrots.
  • Avoid: Spinach (blocks calcium), citrus, pesticide-treated produce
  • Remove uneaten fresh food daily before mold develops

Breeding

  • Ratio: 1 male : 3–5 females. Males have full wings; females have vestigial stubs.
  • Ovoviviparous — live birth, ~20–40 nymphs per clutch, ~65-day gestation
  • Colony takes 3–6 months to become self-sustaining. Patience required!

Maintenance

  • Remove dead roaches and frass every 2–4 weeks
  • Replace soiled egg crates as needed
  • Full bin cleanout every 2–3 months
  • Water crystals refreshed every 2–3 days
Pro Tip Heat is EVERYTHING for Dubia breeding. A colony at 75°F barely reproduces. A colony at 90°F explodes with babies. The #1 reason people say "my colony isn't working" is insufficient heat. Also: wear gloves + N95 mask when cleaning — roach frass is a common allergen.
Important. These guides reflect the husbandry we use at Chaos Creatures and the published research we trust. They are not a substitute for a reptile veterinarian. If an animal is lethargic, refusing food for an extended period, has a wound or is breathing with its mouth open, see a vet.

Last reviewed Nov 6, 2026. Questions about this guide? Ask the rescue.