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Feeder colony guide

Cricket Colony

Acheta domesticus

Classic feeder insect — high protein (~20%), active movement triggers feeding response. Higher chitin than dubias. Must be dusted with calcium and gut-loaded. Note: consider Gryllodes sigillatus (Banded Cricket) as a virus-resistant alternative.

Colony Setup

  • Container: Large plastic bin or glass tank (10–20 gal minimum) with secure, ventilated lid. Crickets are expert jumpers!
  • Bottom: Keep DRY — bare or paper towels. Egg crates stacked vertically for surface area.
  • Egg laying: Separate shallow dish with damp coconut fiber or vermiculite
  • Ventilation: Critical — cut holes, cover with fine metal mesh

Temperature & Humidity

  • Temperature: 75–85°F for growth and breeding
  • Humidity: Keep LOW — 50–60%. Excess moisture = odor, mold, disease, die-offs.
  • Provide moisture through food items, NOT spraying

Diet & Gut-Loading

  • Colony diet: Commercial cricket food, fresh vegetables, oats/grains
  • Gut-load (6–24 hrs before feeding): Collard greens, mustard greens, kale, carrots, squash. Commercial: Mazuri Better Bug, Repashy Bug Burger.
  • Hydration: Moisture-rich veggies or damp sponge. AVOID standing water — crickets drown easily.

Breeding

  • Females (identified by ovipositor) lay eggs into moist substrate
  • Swap egg containers every 2–3 days, incubate at 75–85°F
  • Eggs hatch in 7–14 days
  • CRITICAL: Separate by size — larger crickets WILL eat smaller ones (cannibalistic)

Maintenance

  • Remove dead crickets DAILY (prevents disease and odor)
  • Remove uneaten fresh food daily
  • Full clean at least weekly
  • Full sanitization after any die-off (diluted bleach, rinse thoroughly)
Virus Warning Acheta domesticus Densovirus (AdDV) has devastated cricket colonies worldwide. If you experience unexplained mass die-offs, consider switching to Banded Crickets (Gryllodes sigillatus), which are resistant to AdDV — or start a Dubia colony instead.
Important. These guides reflect the husbandry we use at Chaos Creatures and the published research we trust. They are not a substitute for a reptile veterinarian. If an animal is lethargic, refusing food for an extended period, has a wound or is breathing with its mouth open, see a vet.

Last reviewed Nov 6, 2026. Questions about this guide? Ask the rescue.